Cuba latest - Baracoa

Just time for a quick update.

First I'll just run through the onward clearance process for those heading this way. On the day of departure, you must buy a couple of stamps - all this is explained to you by the marina - and the officials visit your boat again. This time its only customs and the Guarda who come and do a quick search of the boat and issue you your cruising permit. This permit has lots of boxes which are filed with entry and departure stamps from other ports you call at en route. The procedure took about fifteen minutes. Our next port was listed as Santiago de Cuba, but we were told we could stop off en route if we wished. The one exception was the port of Moa, which is a nickel mining area and has a very busy port. Depending on the local Guarda, we would be told if we would be allowed to leave the boat and explore ashore. This is due to the guarda having responsibility for you and your vessel whilst in the harbour. As you know, some Cubans try to 'escape' to America and a boat at anchor is possibly quite a tempting prospect. We are currently in Baracoa and the guarda here have given us permission to explore at will, but have asked that we return to the boat at night so we can ensure its security, which seems fair enough to us. A quick word on arrivals: As we entered the harbour, we were told that we could anchor and that they would come and check our documents shortly. About five minutes later, the local guarda rowed to our boat and after a very quick search, gave us permission to stay in the harbour. I guess the whole thing took about ten minutes.

I dont know if I mentioned it in a previous post, but printed sheets with your boat name and details is very useful, as is a list of all crew, passport numbers etc - all in Spanish. It saves a lot of time and shows that you take their procedures seriously, which also helps. We also have printed sheets with our electronic equipment on board and our possible route plan. Neither are necessary, but both seem to give a degree of confidence to the officials. I'm sure I mentioned before, but a little Spanish will go a long way in Cuba. You will get access to things you might not otherwise see, you can argue your point of view with an official and will find countless stories of the people, which you would not otherwise discover. Make the effort, its never to late to start!

So, Baracoa. Baracoa is Cuba's oldest city, founded in 1511. Once only reachable by sea, this is as far as it gets from the Cuba we have seen so far. We are in a circular harbour, ringed by black, volcanic beaches leading to palm forest covered hills and mountains including the famed flat-topped el Yunque. The beaches are fronted with small shack style houses, reminiscent of maybe Dominica or St Lucia in the Caribbean. The town itself is on a small peninsular that forms one of the breakwaters to the harbour. The first thing that strikes you is that this town is much older than anything we have seen - the buildings are crumbling and the roads only partly paved The second is that it also appears much poorer - although only superficially so, perhaps due to the ancient infrastructure of the town. In reality, it isn't that bad. It's generally clean (although ramshackle), bustling, colourful, friendly and has a real style of its own. Small squares lead to wide open roads with buildings and footpaths on either side raised to about three feet above the street. These footpaths have terraced steps down to the roads and pillars supporting the canopies of the buildings above. As ever, many shops are empty apart from the ice cream parlours and cake shops (which I discovered recently are 'government supplied cakes') but there is much street food available from local vendors - our current favorite is a rather tasty pork roll - much like a meaty bacon sandwich! Paid for in local money, rather than the tourist stuff, which reminds me, I haven't talked about money yet, these snacks are almost free.

Today it's St Patrick's day, so we are trying hard to find a way to celebrate. We will keep you informed as to what goes on!

Bye for now

PXX